Dark Blue Ensemble with Crocheted Lace

VC1992125

Dark Blue Ensemble with Crocheted Lace

Dark blue crepe two-part dress with crocheted lace insets and black and green pleat details; band collar neckline; open front pleated bodice with crochet insets at collar and bust; hook and eye closures center front and back waist; taffeta bias tape trim in green and black center front; elbow length puff sleeves with crochet and taffeta cuffs; smocking; skirt of crepe and lace with hook and eye closures at center back waist; triangular yolk of lace in front; lace strips not backed; tucks from waist to hipline.

1905

Day Ensembles; 1900's; American; female

15 inches (center back B); 52.75 inches (center back A); 41 inches (center front A); 27.5 inches (waist B); 25 inches (waist A)

navy blue silk crepe

ecru crocheted lace

metal hook/eyes

green+black taffeta bias tape trim

Physical Object

American

1900's

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VC1992125

dark blue

wheat

machine stitching, hand stitching, lace making

bodice

skirt

hook and eye

center front, waist

band collar

tucked

elbow-length puff sleeves

natural

gathered

floor-length

27.5 inches (waist B)

25 inches (waist A)

41 inches (center front A)

15 inches (center back B)

52.75 inches (center back A)

15 inches (center back B); 52.75 inches (center back A); 41 inches (center front A); 27.5 inches (waist B); 25 inches (waist A)

Warrell, Estelle Ansley 'American Costume: 1840-1920”Harrisburg: Stockpile Books, 1979 - p. 146, fig. 236Wilcox, 350-1; Contini, 270; Waugh, 'Cut”, diagram LXII, p. 280Halle, 89 (1904) of ter? dress; Bourlen, 397; 4.7; Batterberry, 261; Moore, 154

female

Day Ensembles

ensemble

Vassar Girls and Other Women

This dress is a later, more 'feminine' approach to public situations of the early 1900's and is more appropriate for a spring or summer casual setting. It might have been worn for an afternoon garden party, where those in attendance would have been friends and family with whom the wearer could feel comfortable with shorter sleeves and a lighter weight dress. Such short sleeves and more delicate lines reflect not only the possibility of a more private occasion, but also the changes that took place in attitudes toward those elements between the 1880's and the 1900's, a period of transition between the nineteenth century covering and decoration in order to elaborate upon the female body versus the later twentieth century celebration of the less covered female body.

fair

a--frayed bodice, hole in left shoulder fabricskirt: small hole of CF slighlty below hipline, hemline = fraying in some placesbodice: bring broken in standing collar, green + black at CF coming loose

1992.125.ab

P10

Vassar College Costume Collection, Drama Department, 124 Raymond Avenue, Poughkeepsie, NY 12604

3afternoon dress of navy blue crepe with ecru crocheted lace, c. 19031992.125abThis dress is a later, more 'feminine' approach to public situations of the early 1900's and is more appropriate for a spring or summer casual setting. It might have been worn for an afternoon garden party, where those in attendance would have been friends and family with whom the wearer could feel comfortable with shorter sleeves and a lighter weight dress. Such short sleeves and more delicate lines reflect not only the possibility of a more private occasion, but also the changes that took place in attitudes toward those elements between the 1880's and the 1900's, a period of transition between the nineteenth century covering and decoration in order to elaborate upon the female body versus the later twentieth century celebration of the less covered female body.