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Dark Blue Ensemble with Crocheted Lace

http://vcomeka.com/vccc/images/1992.125.ab.f.2.jpg

Dublin Core

Identifier

VC1992125

Title

Dark Blue Ensemble with Crocheted Lace

Description

Dark blue crepe two-part dress with crocheted lace insets and black and green pleat details; band collar neckline; open front pleated bodice with crochet insets at collar and bust; hook and eye closures center front and back waist; taffeta bias tape trim in green and black center front; elbow length puff sleeves with crochet and taffeta cuffs; smocking; skirt of crepe and lace with hook and eye closures at center back waist; triangular yolk of lace in front; lace strips not backed; tucks from waist to hipline.

Date

1905

Subject

Day Ensembles; 1900's; American; female

Extent

15 inches (center back B); 52.75 inches (center back A); 41 inches (center front A); 27.5 inches (waist B); 25 inches (waist A)

Medium

navy blue silk crepe
ecru crocheted lace
metal hook/eyes
green+black taffeta bias tape trim

Type

Physical Object

Spatial Coverage

American

Temporal Coverage

1900's

Rights

Images in this collection may be used for teaching, classroom presentation, and research purposes only. Reuse, reproduction and publication of these images is prohibited. For more information contact costumeshop@vassar.edu.

Costume Item Type Metadata

Source Identifier

VC1992125

Color Main

dark blue

Color Secondary

wheat

Technique

machine stitching, hand stitching, lace making

A

bodice

B

skirt

Closure Type

hook and eye

Closure Placement

center front, waist

Structure Neckline

band collar

Structure Torso

tucked

Structure Sleeves

elbow-length puff sleeves

Structure Waist

natural

Structure Skirt

gathered

Structure Hem

floor-length

Dimensions Waist

27.5 inches (waist B)
25 inches (waist A)

Dimensions CF Length

41 inches (center front A)

Dimensions CB Length

15 inches (center back B)
52.75 inches (center back A)

Dimensions All

15 inches (center back B); 52.75 inches (center back A); 41 inches (center front A); 27.5 inches (waist B); 25 inches (waist A)

References

Warrell, Estelle Ansley 'American Costume: 1840-1920” Harrisburg: Stockpile Books, 1979 - p. 146, fig. 236 Wilcox, 350-1; Contini, 270; Waugh, 'Cut”, diagram LXII, p. 280 Halle, 89 (1904) of ter? dress; Bourlen, 397; 4.7; Batterberry, 261; Moore, 154

Gender

female

Category

Day Ensembles

Classification

ensemble

Exhibitions

Vassar Girls and Other Women

Public Information

This dress is a later, more 'feminine' approach to public situations of the early 1900's and is more appropriate for a spring or summer casual setting. It might have been worn for an afternoon garden party, where those in attendance would have been friends and family with whom the wearer could feel comfortable with shorter sleeves and a lighter weight dress. Such short sleeves and more delicate lines reflect not only the possibility of a more private occasion, but also the changes that took place in attitudes toward those elements between the 1880's and the 1900's, a period of transition between the nineteenth century covering and decoration in order to elaborate upon the female body versus the later twentieth century celebration of the less covered female body.

Condition Term

fair

Condition

a--frayed bodice, hole in left shoulder fabric skirt: small hole of CF slighlty below hipline, hemline = fraying in some places bodice: bring broken in standing collar, green + black at CF coming loose

Mannequin

1992.125.ab

Storage Location

P10

Repository

Vassar College Costume Collection, Drama Department, 124 Raymond Avenue, Poughkeepsie, NY 12604

Exhibition Notes

3 afternoon dress of navy blue crepe with ecru crocheted lace, c. 1903 1992.125ab This dress is a later, more 'feminine' approach to public situations of the early 1900's and is more appropriate for a spring or summer casual setting. It might have been worn for an afternoon garden party, where those in attendance would have been friends and family with whom the wearer could feel comfortable with shorter sleeves and a lighter weight dress. Such short sleeves and more delicate lines reflect not only the possibility of a more private occasion, but also the changes that took place in attitudes toward those elements between the 1880's and the 1900's, a period of transition between the nineteenth century covering and decoration in order to elaborate upon the female body versus the later twentieth century celebration of the less covered female body.
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Comments

This is now in box P10

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