Dark Blue Ensemble with Crocheted Lace

VC1992125

Dark Blue Ensemble with Crocheted Lace

Dark blue crepe two-part dress with crocheted lace insets and black and green pleat details; band collar neckline; open front pleated bodice with crochet insets at collar and bust; hook and eye closures center front and back waist; taffeta bias tape trim in green and black center front; elbow length puff sleeves with crochet and taffeta cuffs; smocking; skirt of crepe and lace with hook and eye closures at center back waist; triangular yolk of lace in front; lace strips not backed; tucks from waist to hipline. ; ensemble of dark blue with ecru crocheted lace(day) 2 piece - navy blue crepe + ecru crocheted lace w/ taffeta bias tape trim in green + black; (a) bodice of crepe + lace has boned standing collar which attaches to neckline w/ hooks/eyes; gathered at panel @ CF closes with only a few hooks/eyes tp cover actual CF hook/eye closures; rest of bodice in tucks, elbow length puff sleeves w/ crocheted lace trim cuff;(b) skirt of crepe and lace w/ hook/eye closure @ waist CB; triangular yoke of lace; 2 side lace panels continue throughout back, lace strips not backed; tucks from waist to hipline; train

1905 (circa)

Clothing and dress

25 inches (waist), 67.75 inches (center back length), other measurements: 15 inches (center back B); 52.75 inches (center back A); 41 inches (center front A); 27.5 inches (waist B); 25 inches (waist A)

crepe

crochet

lace

metal

silk

taffeta

Physical Object

United States

1900s

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VC1992125

Arden Kirkland 4/11/1993

navy blue

cream

green

black

machine sewing

hand sewing

lace making

tucks

hooks and eyes

center front closure

band collar

puff sleeve

elbow-length sleeve

natural waistline

gored skirt

floor length

25

67.75

15 inches (center back B); 52.75 inches (center back A); 41 inches (center front A); 27.5 inches (waist B); 25 inches (waist A)

25 inches (waist), 67.75 inches (center back length), other measurements: 15 inches (center back B); 52.75 inches (center back A); 41 inches (center front A); 27.5 inches (waist B); 25 inches (waist A)

Warrell, Estelle Ansley 'American Costume: 1840-1920”Harrisburg: Stockpile Books, 1979 - p. 146, fig. 236Wilcox, 350-1; Contini, 270; Waugh, 'Cut”, diagram LXII, p. 280Halle, 89 (1904) of ter? dress; Bourlen, 397; 4.7; Batterberry, 261; Moore, 154

1900

1910

American

womenswear

costume

clothing

Day Ensembles

day wear

Vassar Girls and Other Women

This dress is a later, more 'feminine' approach to public situations of the early 1900's and is more appropriate for a spring or summer casual setting. It might have been worn for an afternoon garden party, where those in attendance would have been friends and family with whom the wearer could feel comfortable with shorter sleeves and a lighter weight dress. Such short sleeves and more delicate lines reflect not only the possibility of a more private occasion, but also the changes that took place in attitudes toward those elements between the 1880's and the 1900's, a period of transition between the nineteenth century covering and decoration in order to elaborate upon the female body versus the later twentieth century celebration of the less covered female body.

fair

a--frayed bodice, hole in left shoulder fabricskirt: small hole of CF slighlty below hipline, hemline = fraying in some placesbodice: bring broken in standing collar, green + black at CF coming loose

1992.125.ab

P10

Vassar College Costume Collection, Drama Department, 124 Raymond Avenue, Poughkeepsie, NY 12604

3afternoon dress of navy blue crepe with ecru crocheted lace, c. 19031992.125abThis dress is a later, more 'feminine' approach to public situations of the early 1900's and is more appropriate for a spring or summer casual setting. It might have been worn for an afternoon garden party, where those in attendance would have been friends and family with whom the wearer could feel comfortable with shorter sleeves and a lighter weight dress. Such short sleeves and more delicate lines reflect not only the possibility of a more private occasion, but also the changes that took place in attitudes toward those elements between the 1880's and the 1900's, a period of transition between the nineteenth century covering and decoration in order to elaborate upon the female body versus the later twentieth century celebration of the less covered female body.

dress