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Wedding Dress of Margaret A. Heminway

1992.087.q-004.jpg
1854 Wedding Dress of Margaret A. Heminway
Interior View of 1854 Wedding Dress
Interior View of 1854 Wedding Dress
Interior View of 1854 Wedding Dress
Detail of 1854 Wedding Dress
Back View of 1854 Wedding Dress
Front View of 1854 Wedding Dress of Margaret A. Hemingway
Interior View of Wedding Dress of Margaret A. Heminway
Condition View of Wedding Dress of Margaret A. Heminway
Condition View of Wedding Dress of Margaret A. Heminway
Condition View of Wedding Dress of Margaret A. Heminway
Condition View of Wedding Dress of Margaret A. Heminway
Condition View of Wedding Dress of Margaret A. Heminway
Condition View of Wedding Dress of Margaret A. Heminway
Scale View of Wedding Dress of Margaret A. Heminway

Dublin Core

Identifier

VC1992087

Title

Wedding Dress of Margaret A. Heminway

Description

Dress of cream silk taffeta; lining made of off-white polished cotton; crinoline silhouette; boned bodice, barrel-chested, princess seams in back, three waist darts in front; high neckline, finished with fine piping of about 1/6"; cap sleeves with two ruffles; boning at center back and through the front; brass hooks and eyes at center back; piped waistline; very full skirt, required hoop skirt; floor length; at the waistline cartridge pleats in back and knife pleats at front; "Margaret A. Hemingway's Wedding dress, married June 21, 1854" handwritten on the boning inside bodice; dress was hand-stitched.

Date

1854

Subject

Clothing and dress

Extent

31 inches (chest), 22 inches (waist), 56.5 inches (center front length), 56 inches (center back length), other measurements: Hem = 2 yards; 35

Medium

boning
metal
cotton
silk
taffeta

Type

Physical Object

Spatial Coverage

Pennsylvania
United States

Temporal Coverage

1850s
1860s

Rights

http://rightsstatements.org/vocab/InC-EDU/1.0/

Is Referenced By

For Better and For Worse

Rights Holder

© Vassar College Costume Collection. Images in this collection may be used for teaching, classroom presentation, and research purposes only. For other reuse, reproduction and publication of these images, contact costumeshop@vassar.edu.

Costume Item Type Metadata

Source Identifier

VC1992087

Cataloguer with Date

Arden Kirkland 4/18/1993; Turpin, Thompson, Boesche, Starr 3/3/2010; Alexandra Figler, 1/24/14

Color Main

cream

Technique

hand sewing

Structure Silhouette

hoopskirt

Closure Type

hooks and eyes

Closure Placement

center back closure

Sleeve Length

cap sleeve

Structure Waist

natural waistline

Structure Skirt

pleated skirt

Structure Hem

floor length

Costume Component

lining

Dimensions Chest

31

Dimensions Waist

22

Dimensions CF Length

56.5

Dimensions CB Length

56

Dimensions Other

Hem = 2 yards; 35

Dimensions All

31 inches (chest), 22 inches (waist), 56.5 inches (center front length), 56 inches (center back length), other measurements: Hem = 2 yards; 35

Label

"Margaret A. Heminway's wedding dress, married June 21, 1854" handwritten on boning inside bodice

Wearer

Margaret A. Heminway

References

Bonder 385 (1850-60) Bradfield, 195-6 91856-7) Collard ???, plate after p. 21 (1861) Fe;ger 8 (1854, 1855) ???

Date Earliest

1854

Date Latest

1854

Culture

American

Gender

womenswear

Classification

costume
clothing

Category

Wedding

Function

wedding clothes

Exhibitions

Vassar Girls and Other Women

Public Information

One of the fascinations of this dress comes from the fact that the bride's name is recorded on the inside of the dress, with 'Margaret A. Heminway's wedding dress, married June 21, 1854'handwritten in ink on the boning inside the bodice. Genealogical records indicate that she married Alfred W. Sansbury in Palmyra, New York. Their daughter, Mary Louise Sansbury, married Herbert Elmer Mills who became Vassar Professor of Economics in 1890. Although the date of this dress precedes the founding of Vassar, this piece is in exquisite condition and therefore serves as a valuable example of the early crinoline period. The fullness of the crinoline skirt is balanced with simplicity elsewhere in the dress. While the mere size of the skirt would serve to focus attention on the bride, allowing her to take up a great deal of space on her very important day, the absence of elaborate trimmings would not draw further attention away from the bride's own beauty.

Condition Term

very good

Condition

detached pleats at center front; staining at armpits, mostly at interior; discoloring near hooks and eyes

Treatment

The padded wooden mannequin was re-shaped and re-padded to better fit this dress. A net hoop skirt was dressed on the mannequin to provide a foundation garment, but the shape was too conical and not rounded enough at the top, so tissue paper was inserted between the hoop and the skirt fabric to round out the shape over the hips and soften the edges of the metal hoops underneath (as a proper petticoat would have done).

Mannequin

Margaret

Storage Location

B1

Repository

Vassar College Costume Collection, Drama Department, 124 Raymond Avenue, Poughkeepsie, NY 12604

Exhibition Notes

from 'Vassar Girls and Other Women: 1854-1925'exhibition, June 1993: 24 1854 ivory silk taffeta wedding dress of Margaret A, Heminway 1992.87 Handwriting on the boning inside the bodice of the dress reads: 'Margaret A. Heminway's wedding dress / married June 21, 1854.' In this, dress, the fullness of the crinoline skirt is balanced with simplicity elsewhere in the dress. While the mere size of the skirt would serve to focus attention on the bride, allowing her to take up a great deal of space on her very important day, the absence of elaborate trimmings would not draw further attention away from the bride's own beauty. Although the date of this dress precedes the founding of Vassar, as the earliest documented object in the VCCC, this piece is in exquisite condition and therefore serves as a valuable example of the early crinoline period.

Work Type

dress
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