Cream and Brown Printed and Striped Bodice

VC1992045

Cream and Brown Printed and Striped Bodice

cream lightweight silk with narrow brown stripe, perpendicular pattern of a light brown wider stripe with brief patches of dark brown (paintbrush effect); dark brown velvet ribbon (probably silk, but unsure); sateen weave cotton (or possibly linen) cream lining; metal hooks and eyesTight-fitting bodice, dropped shoulders with puffs at top of sleeves. Closes CF with hidden hooks and eyes; high close neckline, no collar (current collar not original), self-piping at neckline; vertical stripes of ruching with narrow ribbon detailing front and back; two vertical darts either side at front; attached belt of same materials, with ribbons at edges and silk and ribbon rosette detail at CF; armscyes self-piped, puffs at top of sleeves have 4 ribbons making a sort of cage, apparently only attached at seams of puff, lower sleeve two pieces, curved but no additional shaping (no darts or godets), 3 ribbon stripe at cuff, only on front/top of sleeve; bodice fully lined.

1867 (circa)

Clothing and dress

32 inches (chest), 25 inches (waist), 15.5 inches (center front length), 15.5 inches (center back length), other measurements: armscye 9 from necklower sleeve: outer seam 17, inner seam 11.5

cotton

metal

silk

Physical Object

1850s

1860s

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VC1992045

Margaret Thompson 4/23/10

cream

brown

32

25

15.5

15.5

armscye 9 from necklower sleeve: outer seam 17, inner seam 11.5

32 inches (chest), 25 inches (waist), 15.5 inches (center front length), 15.5 inches (center back length), other measurements: armscye 9 from necklower sleeve: outer seam 17, inner seam 11.5

1862

1872

womenswear

costume

clothing

Tops

Would be helpful to know if lining is cotton or linen for conservation purposes; needs to be stored better so that puff sleeves are no longer flattened.

good

some ribbons loose or detachid, belt coming loose, stains at underarms and a few water stains, fraying at cuffs, collar not original, been let out in back seams

K4

Vassar College Costume Collection, Drama Department, 124 Raymond Avenue, Poughkeepsie, NY 12604

The construction of this bodice, with the exception of the sleeves, is nearly identical to that of the double-point bodice, but the look is entirely different. The striped vertical ruching and narrow brown velvet ribbon lend the dress a rather Renaissance appearance, particularly when taken together with the sleeves, which have puffs at the top, with a decidedly Elizabethan velvet ribbon cage.This second bodice from the Vassar collection comes from a more carefree year than the other bodice, with its fanciful, elaborate decorations and bold print fabric. The date of 1867-68 makes sense, as it would be after the Civil War, and thus fancier dresses would be more appropriate. The dress is also probably for a younger woman, as the measurements are more in keeping with the average sizes of women at the time.
Researched by Margaret Thompson ‘10

bodice

stripes