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Black and White Striped Dress

DSC00962.JPG

Dublin Core

Identifier

VC2004023

Title

Black and White Striped Dress

Description

Black, white, and grey striped two piece dress in a fit and flare silhouette. Cotton sateen, black cotton, black felt, metal, and elastic; fitted cotton sateen bodice (a) is strapless, with a sweetheart neckline, princess seams, natural waistline, hook and eye closures at the center back, and cotton lining; matching flared cotton sateen skirt (b) is knee-length, with an elastic waistband, metal zipper at side, felt lining, stripes radiating from waist to hem.

Creator

Schiap-Sport

Date

1946-1954

Subject

Clothing and Dress
1950s
Schiap-Sport

Extent

Top (a): 25.5 inches (waist), 32.75 inches (bust); Skirt (b): 27 inches (waist), 49 inches (hips)

Medium

cotton
silk
metal
elastic

Type

Physical Object
Dress

Spatial Coverage

France

Temporal Coverage

1940s
1950s

Costume Item Type Metadata

Source Identifier

VC2004023

Cataloguer with Date

Arden Kirkland 5/7/2004
Margaret Thompson & Madeleine Boesche 2/13/10
Julia Fields 2011

Color Main

white

Color Secondary

black
grey

Technique

machine sewing
hand sewing

A

bodice

B

skirt

Structure Silhouette

fit and flare

Structure Cut

straight

Closure Type

hooks and eyes (center back of bodice)
zipper (side waist of skirt)

Structure Neckline

strapless
sweetheart

Structure Torso

princess seams

Structure Waist

natural

Structure Skirt

gored

Structure Hem

mid-calf

Structure Lining

lined

Dimensions Chest

32.75

Dimensions Waist

25.5

Dimensions Hips

49

Dimensions All

Top (a): 25.5 inches (waist), 32.75 inches (bust); Skirt (b): 27 inches (waist), 49 inches (hips)

Label

"Schiap-Sport -21 Place Vendome Paris '46”

Wearer

Elizabeth de la Rochefoucauld Allen (sister-in-law of donor)

Donor

Nancy Brandon Allen (sister-in-law of wearer)

Date Earliest

1946

Date Latest

1954

Culture

French

Gender

female

Classification

Costume

Exhibitions



Public Information

This piece came to us in two pieces, as a skirt and a top, but the finishing on the waists of both pieces indicates that it may once have bee one dress. While the donor told us that it was a Givenchy piece, the label within reads “Schiap-Sport,” indicating Elsa Schiaparelli’s line. Research tells us that Hubert Givenchy did work for Schiaparelli for four years before beginning his own design house in Paris in 1952 (1), so both could be true.

 

The dates are still uncertain. The label in its entirety reads “Schiap-Sport -21 Place Vendome Paris 46,” indicating a date of 1946. While we have been unable to find a match for this dress in other collections to confirm its date, there are a few strapless (and sometimes striped) dresses to compare it with (2) (3),  and the Schiap-Sport label seems to have been more popular in the late part of Elsa’s career (1940s and 50s) (4).

 

Elsa Schiaparelli was born in Rome, began her career in America, opened her first atelier in Paris, moved back to New York in 1941, and returned to Paris in 1945. She worked with surrealist artists Salvador Dali and Jean Cocteau, was associated with Man Ray and Gabrielle Picabia, the wife of Francis Picabia, and was known for blurring the line between dressmaking and art. Schiaparelli closed her doors in 1954, but not before creating a legacy that would go on to inspire designers like Geoffrey Beene, Charles James, and Yves Saint Laurent (5).

Condition Term

good

Condition

light stains under arms; lots of tears in lining of skirt

Treatment

To support the fullness of the skirt for display, the mannequin was dressed in a flared petticoat with layers of stiff netting.

Storage Location

G7

Repository

Vassar College Costume Collection, Drama Department, 124 Raymond Avenue, Poughkeepsie, NY 12604

Completeness of Record

complete

Credit Line

Gift of Nancy Brandon Allen, VC Class of 1939

Donor Class Year

1939
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